Mr Rogers Appliance Repair

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Fault Finding On Washing Machines

Common Washing Machine Problems

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Almost every home in the US has a washer, inevitably, they will start presenting problems at some period of their life, the only question is on how long they will run before breaking down and how much it will cost to repair. When that time comes, Mr Rogers is ready to offer you a top quality appliance repair service. Our washer repair technicians can help you fix your washing machine at an affordable price with warranty on every appliance repair. If you don't have a washer maintenance program if very posible that you will have washing machine problems in a near future.

Mr Rogers wrote a list for you so you can identify some washer problems you may have at home. We offer washer repair service to Brandon - Riverview and Tampa Bay Area.

Washer Problem #1 - Washing machine won't start, no power

There is lots of things that can cause this to happen but as with any fault diagnosis, start at the beginning and work through the problem methodically. So begin at the plug, make sure that there is power to the socket and that the fuse is okay before looking any further. Check the following:

$1·         Mains filter

$1·         Door lock

$1·         Mains cable & terminal block

$1·         Main power switch

$1·         Control PCB

If you need an expert to fix washer machine that is not starting just call Mr Rogers. 

Washer Problem #2 - Washing machine won't drain or is noisy on drain

Generally this will be some sort of drain pump failure or blockage. So check the following:

$1·         Drain pump blocked

$1·         Drain pump faulty

$1·         Waste outlet hose blocked

$1·         Sump hose blocked

$1·         Object in pump

$1·         Poor flooring or installation

If you need a technician to check your washing machine that’s not draining correctly or is noisy when doing so, call Mr Rogers Appliance Repair Service. 

Washer Problem #3 - Washing machine noisy

See the above, drain pump faulty, as this can cause horrendous noise from the washer, especially something trapped in the pump.

Objects trapped in between the outer tub and drum can also be a cause of noise, things like bra wires are extremely common to be retrieved and they can cause damage to the washing machine and any clothing in it. If you can, remove the wires before washing.

The use of a wash bag for small items can greatly reduce the chances of items getting between the drum and tub.

If the washer machine is a few years old then it is very possible that the bearings are either faulty, collapsed or just starting to go. With bearings the sooner that they are replaced the better as there is liable to be less damage and, if you know that they are faulty, not using or minimising the use will help to avoid further damage.

Stability can also cause excessive noise, especially where the machine is on a wooden or floating floor. Obviously a fault with the suspension system can also produce the same result. To solve this problem check the following:

$1·         Noisy pump

$1·         Object in the drain pump

$1·         Object trapped in the tub

$1·         Bearings faulty

$1·         Washing machine not levelled correctly

$1·         Faulty dampers or suspension

$1·         Poor flooring or installation

If you couldn’t fix the your noisy washer you can call Mr Rogers and a certified technician will be there to help you repair your appliance.

Washer Problem #4 - Washing machine drum not turning

Normally when this happens people often assume that the belt is faulty and, while this can be a cause, on most modern machines the belt will more often than not outlive the actual machine. It is not the common problem that it was many years ago and hasn't been for many years.

The problem these days is more liable to be the likes of a speed control PCB or module or even what is referred to as the "tacho generator" on the washing machine's motor.

Notably on older Hotpoint machines, pre-2003 especially, with a GEC motor fitted the carbon brushes being worn can cause this.

Assuming everything else works these should be checked:

$1·         Belt

$1·         Speed control PCB or module

$1·         Motor capacitor (where fitted)

$1·         Main control module

$1·         Motor faulty

$1·         Faulty carbon brushes

Mr Rogers can help you fix your washer. Call us now and schedule an appointment to repair your appliance in the Tampa Bay Area. 

Washer Problem #5 - Washing machine timer not advancing

This is a tricky one and it's not really possible to be entirely polite as so many people make the error of thinking immediately that the timer or controller is not working when, in fact, it's often got nothing whatsoever to do with the timer. So if you're reading this and thinking that the timer is faulty, you're probably wrong.

Normally the timer will advance to a certain stage before stopping and that gives us a huge lead on diagnosis of the actual problems as, what happens is that the machine will almost certainly halt where the actual faulty component is called into use.

What this means is that almost any component can cause this fault and, if you are unsure we would strongly advise that you seek professional help because, if you spend $100 or more on a timer or module and you're wrong then the chances are that it will be non-returnable.

Better call Mr Rogers and ask for a technician to visit your house and tell you what the real problem with your washer is. Remember we offer a Free Service Call with the repair, so don’t hesitate and call Mr Rogers now and get your appliances fixed. 

Washer Problem #6 - Washing machine not heating

Pretty easy one usually, in most cases there will be a faulty heater, thermostat, thermistor or pressure switch but there can be other causes. Check if the following are working fine:

$1·         Heater

$1·         Thermostat

$1·         Thermistor

$1·         Pressure switch/level sensor

$1·         Timer or control PCB/module

If you couldn’t identify the problem by yourself you can call a certified washer technician to help you on that, or just ask Mr Rogers to send you a specialist to your home to get your washer working again. 

Washer Problem #7 - Washing machine is vibrating badly

If you've just installed the machine then the chances are that you have not removed the transit packing properly, go back and read the manual again to see how it is done as.

Assuming the machine has been in a while then the problem can still be flooring or installation related, but more commonly it will be a suspension problem. Of course there are other faults that can manifest themselves in this manner, but it is rare. So check the following to identify the problem:

$1·         Suspension

$1·         Bearing failure (See previous "Washing machine noisy")

If you couldn’t repair your washer you can Call Mr Rogers and ask a certified technician to assist you. 

Washer Problem #8 - Washing machine not spinning

Again often blamed on the belt but in 20 years I can almost count on one hand how many washers I've seen a faulty belt causing no spin on, it is very rare.

See the previous "Washer Problem #4 - Washing machine drum won't turn" as many of the problems described there can be mirrored to this problem.

Remember very carefully, if the machine cannot drain or drain correctly then the spin will often abort rather than actually not spin so bear this in mind when looking for a problem.

$1·         Speed control PCB/module

$1·         Faulty or worn carbon brushes

$1·         Faulty contacts on fast cam within the timer

$1·         Faulty capacitor (where fitted)

$1·         Faulty motor

$1·         Faulty motor tacho

$1·         Blocked pump or drain

$1·         Overloaded or out of balance, can be made worse by poor installation or flooring

$1·         Faulty bearings

$1·         Faulty door lock mechanism

$1·         Faulty pressure switch

If you feel that is better for a specialist to check your washer you can call Mr Rogers Appliance Repair service anytime. Remember we are part of the Better Business Bureau. 

Washer Problem #9 - Washing machine not filling

First, check if the water supply is okay!

Assuming it is then the first port of call will be the water valve. Pressure switch and electronic components can also cause this problem and it is often mistakenly reported as a fill problem when really, it is actually just that the machine won't start in the first place.

$1·         Water supply

$1·         Water fill valve

$1·         Pressure switch

$1·         Control PCB/module

Call a technician to help you fix your washer. 

Washer Problem #10 - Poor washing results from washing machine

On Internet you can find a great amount of manuals to help you learn how to use your washer.

Look for manuals such as: 

How to use detergent correctly

Washing machine maintenance wash

Overloading and the problems it causes as well as how it hampers performance.

If you can’t find any useful manual, you can simply call Mr Rogers and a certified technician will show you how to use correctly your washer. 

Washer Problem # 11 Bad smell from washing machine

All about smelly washing machines and the from links will lead you to many associated problems, such as mould problems. Also covered here is the likes of mould or black marks (which are really mould) on the door seal and dirty soap drawers.

If you think you problem is affecting your daily living, call Mr Rogers to fix your appliance. 

Washer Problem #12 - Washing machine lights flash and won't work

This is most likely a new electronically controlled machine and the flashing lights will almost certainly be giving you a fault code of some sort. Until you know what that fault code is in some cases you won't be able to go much further.

If you need help with your faulty washer giving a fault code call Mr Rogers and an appliance repair technician will be at your door. 

Washer Problem #13 - Washing machine leaks from the front

Check that the soap box isn't blocked first of all as that is the prime suspect here. Bear in mind that it is clean water and you may not see the water run down the front to the door surround, where it gathers and drips from the bottom of the door so the fault can often be reported as, "door leaking".

Of course the door can leak and, generally, it will need a new door or the door glass may simply need cleaned. Scum can build up on the glass causing the small part that actually seals to not meet the door glass correctly and so it leaks. Check the following:

$1·         Soap box

$1·         Soap box to tub hose

$1·         Door Seal

$1·         Door glass

If you couldn’t identify the cause of your washer leaking you can call Mr Rogers and ask for some help. 

Washer Problem #14 - Washing machine leaking from underneath

Okay this is another one of those "could be anything" ones. Water follows Newton's Law, i.e. it flows downwards with gravity so any component at all leaking can cause this, but the common ones to be looking for are listed here.

$1·         Drain pump leaking

$1·         Filter leaking

$1·         Tub gasket leaking

$1·         Hose split

$1·         Hose leaking (any of them)

$1·         Water pressure too high

$1·         Heater gasket perished

$1·         Door seal

$1·         Pressure switch or sensor fault (overfilling)

$1·         Physical tub damage

$1·         Soap drawer damage

If you want to stop your washer leak call Mr Rogers now. 

Washer Problem #15 - Washer  Dryer  Problems

Washer dryers are, frankly, a nightmare in a white box. In general the technicians hate them as they are more problematic, harder to work on and have a tendency not to live up to the promises and people's expectations. So, if it's a performance issue that you're having with the dryer there's probably nothing wrong with it, they're pretty much all bad.

Remember that, in addition to the following, washer dryers share every fault listed for washing machines as well!

Actual condenser dryers are okay these days although the cheaper ones do tend to give more trouble than the better built machines. They are more complex though so if you're not sure, just get in a pro to look at it.

Heat pump dryers are specialist only affairs, we would strongly recommend that if you have a fault on one to not touch it yourself. 

Washer Problem #16 - Washer dryer not drying

Very common fault and also one that can be caused by many things, it's simply a case of eliminating the suspects.

$1·         Faulty water valve

$1·         Blocked condensate chamber

$1·         Faulty heater

$1·         Faulty thermostat or thermistor

$1·         Faulty pressure switch

$1·         Faulty pump

$1·         Spin faulty so the clothes are too wet to be dried 

 Washer Problem #17 - Washer dryer leaks on dry

This can be a tricky one, but normally one of these:

$1·         Condensate chamber or seal faulty

$1·         Trickle hose faulty

$1·         Drain pump leaking 

Washer Problem #18 - Washer dryer noisy on dry

This one's usually just a bundle of laughs to put right, especially on some of the more "unusual" dryer designs we see. But look at the dryer fan motor for the usual culprit, quite often this will be caused by the fan breaking up or the motor bearings failing. 

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Common faults of a Fridge Freezer, Freezer Or Fridge

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Every single home in the US will have some sort of refrigeration, be it a small fridge with an icemaker or a grand American style side by side fridge freezer and, very often, they give problems. When they do fail they are also, probably, one of the more specialized areas of our industry as they employ a gas system, which is under pressure, to act as a heat exchanger.

The gas system, including the compressor and the changeover valves which will be mentioned below are specialist areas only and you will require a professional technician to assist you.

In essence there are two types of refrigeration system used on domestic fridges, freezers and fridge freezers; falling air and forced air and it is important that you know what you are looking at.

Falling Air Fridges

<strong class=Refrigerator Repair" width="175" height="131" />Falling air means that the effect of refrigeration relies upon cold air "falling" off of an evaporator which will normally be a metal plate at the back of the fridge, the actual icemaker in a small fridge or often now, that plate will be mounted behind the rear wall out of site.

This really isn't that efficient but it is very reliable as it minimizes the use of moving parts and is very old technology, but also very robust. One of the big problems is that you get temperature differentials between the bottom, where the cold air falls to first, and the top where the heat rises to. It also means that when you open the door, either fridge or freezer, that the cold air at the bottom rushes out making the unit work hard again to re-establish the correct temperature.

Manual defrosting is a must in any unit using this system that has any freezing capability.

These units are normally controlled by a single simple thermostat although electronics are increasingly being employed to improve the efficiency somewhat.

Forced Air Refrigerators And Freezers

refrigeratorForced air is where the air is "forced" by being blown over an evaporator into the fridge and/or freezer. The effect of this is similar to that of a blast freezer where the freezing cold air is driven into the unit and this produces the result, to cut the story short, of the appliance being frost free. Of course it isn't really frost free as the frost builds up on the evaporator just as it does in a falling air unit and has to be removed to prevent a blockage.

This is where the problems mainly lie with frost free units, the defrost.

Periodically the refrigerator has to run what we refer to as a "defrost cycle" and this will be determined by the thermostats or thermistors in conjunction with the defrost timer or the electronic controls. These defrost cycles will generally run in multiples of four hours depending on the fridge, so 4, 8, 12, 24 hour defrost cycles and commonplace.

Safety First When Repairing Fridges And Freezers

<strong class=refrigerator repair" />To get the best refrigerator repair technician call Mr Rogers Appliances, which serve All Tampa Bay Area. It is your guarantee that the service that you receive will be a quality repair that is fairly priced and guaranteed.

When it comes to refrigeration there is another danger, one that you may well not have considered at all.

Food "goes off" by the cellular structure breaking down and then bacteria forming, hence the blue mould on the cheese if it is not used in time. In order to prolong the life of the food you keep it chilled or frozen which slows that degradation of the food and this has to be done in a fixed temperature range to maximize the food's lifespan. If you don’t do a repair and that temperature is not maintained then you could have early degradation of the food, it may even seem okay but not really be fit to eat.

Refrigerated food should be kept between +1?C and +5?C, any more or less and it's dangerous. Frozen food should be kept between -18?C (optimal) and -20?C. Whilst the temperature may swing either way a degree or so the mean should lie within those ranges, if not then it is dangerous.

If you're freezer has defrosted or the food appears to be "soft", you've lost it already DO NOT  re-freeze this sort of food as it will have degraded and there is a disease risk with some foods, such as poultry and other meats (including fish) especially.

Common Fridge & Fridge Freezer Problems

Fridge or freezer over-freezing

This can be caused by air ingress to the fridge or freezer but it is a common symptom of a failure in the control system, be that electronic or good old electro-mechanical.

frozen refrigeratorOn a simple thermostat controlled machine you can check this easily with a multi-meter as electro-mechanical thermostats are simple, pretty dumb actually, on/off devices. They simply switch off the power to the compressor when the machine achieves the desired temperature. For the most part these are easily changed but there are a huge number of peculiar thermostats although many of the standard ones will cover a vast amount of machines but if you are not sure then call Mr Rogers and ask help from a technician, as it is very easy to get the incorrect one, especially for fridge freezers. You will require the make, model and serial number as they do get changed during production quite often and from version to version.

It is absolutely vital when replacing a thermostat that you do not kink, cut or break the "phial" which is the long pliable wire that goes to the back wall or plate as it is filled with gas. The expansion and contraction of that gas is what makes the thermostat actually work. Check the following

$1·         Door seal/s faulty or not sealing allowing air ingress

$1·         Thermostat faulty

$1·         Evaporator door (icemaker fridges) not sealing correctly

$1·         Insulation failure

$1·         Blockage in gas system (can cause an ice-ball)

If you need professional assistance you can Call Mr Rogers Appliance Repair and a technician will help you fix your appliance. 

Fridge not cooling

This can be caused by a thermostat failure (refer to the above section) but that is rare to be honest. More likely the compressor is not running or not running properly for some reason.

$1·         Compressor failurefridge not cooling

$1·         Compressor PTC

$1·         Compressor relay

$1·         Thermostat

$1·         Electronic failure

$1·         Thermistor failure

If the refrigerator cools a little on a fridge freezer and the freezer section seems okay then it can also be a sign that there is either a blockage or a shortage of gas. Please note that a gas shortage will not manifest itself magically after a few years unless there has been physical damage to the pipework.

Basically this is pretty much an experts area, but the causes are as follows in the main:

$1·         Shortage of gas on appliances under a year old

$1·         Blockage or choke in pipework

$1·         Changeover valve faulty

$1·         Compressor pumping weak (highly likely on older machines 8 years or more old) 

Freezer not cooling

 

freezer not coolingSee above as it's pretty much the same as for a fridge.

Mr Rogers technicians can also help you repair your freezer. 

Bad smell coming from the fridge

There are many reasons why a refrigerator can have bad smelling. To be sure what’s going on with your fridge call Mr Rogers Appliance Repair to have a technician assist you in Tampa Bay Area, Brandon and nearby.bad smell refrigerator 

 Fridge leaking water

leaking refrigerator"How a "self defrosting" system works using this principal is that every now and then the appliance cycles and the ice formed by condensation on the plate, or back wall, liquefies and runs down to a defrost channel. It is with this part that problems happen.

Tiny bits of foodstuff or dust slowly clogs that defrost channel for the water to run away and you see water in the fridge. There is, basically a hole in the center of the defrost pan it is this small tube that gets blocked and water can no longer drain away as it should and then you get water in the fridge. Easy to cure, just poke a bit of flexible wire down the drain hole and you've fixed it!"

What happens is that the water runs forward and produces a "leak from the fridge" and this is the most common reason for it by far.

Of course there are other possible reasons as well including:

$1·         Insulation failure

$1·         Defrost tray on compressor overfilled or damaged

$1·         Spillage inside the unit

If you get a leak from a chest freezer it will almost certainly be an insulation failure which is, pretty much as far as practicality goes, unrepairable. 

 I punctured a small hole while defrosting and now the fridge freezer won't cool, what's wrong?

Oops, you've just killed your fridge, freezer or fridge freezer. 

broken refrigeratorWe see this a lot I'm afraid and it's this simple, don't ever go near the inside of a fridge with anything sharp and metal to defrost with as there is an extremely high probability that you will pierce a pipe in the fridge. This lets all the gas out, so no cooling, then because most people run them thinking it might be okay, oil gets dragged up from the compressor and chokes the pipework. Invariably the machine is a total write off.

If this is your problem, sorry but there's not much that anyone can do to help you I'm afraid.

Having said that some of the American style fridge freezers, such as GE  and Maytag, can be saved and can be worth saving due to the cost of a replacement, but on cheap refrigeration it's simply not worth the trouble as you are facing a $150+ repair bill with no guarantee of a successful repair in most cases. 

 I get condensation around the door, why?

This is very common on a host of fridge freezers especially. What this is, is what is known as the "anti-condensate" line, a pipe of hot gas that runs just behind the door opening to stop condensation forming at the door seal. Sadly in a cold environment the result is that you will get condensation forming as a result.

It is perfectly normal but may signify that the room temperature is too low, below the accepted operating temperatures as given in your use manual.

Fridge freezer is noisy

This can of course be caused by a few things, in a normal fridge you are pretty much limited to the compressor or excessive gas noise as that's all that moves, but in frost free things get a whole lot more complex. On this type of refrigeration you introduce, at least, a fan and fan motor, both of which can become noisy through blockages, ice build ups and bearing failure in the motor.

Many American style fridge freezers also have a cooling fan to cool the compressor, another possible source of noise. We've also seen air stats jamming the flap between the sections causing an ice build up and, consequently, noise.

The most common is an ice buildup and the fan will strike the ice formation giving a screeching noise, the reason is normally a thermostat failure of some kind leading to the buildup of ice. However a defrost element failure can produce the same result, as can an electronic controller.

Don't forget to also to check the cabinet for air ingress as that too, as explained previously, can cause an ice buildup. It is also worth noting that, on fridge freezers with an ice and/or water dispenser that a leak from either of those can also cause excessive ice and, if it reaches the evaporator in the freezer, it may well be the culprit.

In some machines there is a fan to drive air in the fridge as well as one if the freezer connected by an air channel, if this blocks or the second motor fails then abnormal noise is almost certain to occur.

$1·         Fan motor failure

$1·         Ice build up, fan clipping the ice

$1·         Thermostat failure leading to ice build up

$1·         Air channels blocked or obstructed

$1·         Compressor failure – noisy

If you have this fridge problem call an appliance certified technician to get professional appliance repair service. 

There's lots of ice in my freezer, what is wrong?

See previous section.

Main culprits will be as follows;

$1·         Fan motor failure

$1·         Ice build up, fan clipping the ice

$1·         Thermostat failure leading to ice build up

$1·         Air channels blocked or obstructed 

 Fridge not cooling but freezer cold

This will happen more on American type fridge freezers but can happen where there are two fan motors as well. Basically the cold air used in the fridge to cool is drawn off from the freezer section and something is stopping that from happening.

$1·         Fan motor failure

$1·         Ice build up, fan clipping the ice

$1·         Thermostat failure

$1·         Electronics failure

$1·         Compressor weak

Need to repair your refrigerator? Call Mr. Rogers now 

Fridge freezer not working at all

This is pretty simple usually for the technician, but often not for DIY.

First things, check the electrical supply, plug and fuse are okay. Assuming that they are then the following are the most likely causes;

$1·         Compressor failure

$1·         Electronics failure

$1·         Compressor PTC

$1·         Compressor relay

$1·         Terminal block

If you need a certified technician to help you with the refrigerator repair call Mr Rogers Now. 

Fridge Freezer Icemaker not working

Nightmare stuff, usually we just get told to replace everything!

Obviously that's not really practical in the real world so we have to think about it a bit.

If there's no water in the ice tray then chances are that the water valve  is faulty or that the inlet in blocked in some way, this can happen especially if the filters get clogged up.

Usually the icemakers are really pretty simple things internally but recently, as with the likes of the Samsung and Whirlpool machines, we've seen the increasing use of electronics. For example, the Whirlpool ones use an infra-red beam to cut off the ice making, the boards fail and are very expensive to replace.

Of course the ice-making unit itself can go faulty, but it's rare and they do appear to be very reliable on the whole, so long as they are not electronic.

If your Icemaker is not working and you want to fix it you can call Mr Rogers anytime to get an appliance expert assist you. 

Where do I get a water filter for my fridge freezer?

Call Mr Rogers and we will gladly help you get a new water filter. 

Bottle holder broken in fridge

Call Mr Rogers and we will gladly help you fix you bottle holder. 

Glass shelf in fridge broken

Call Mr Rogers and we will gladly help you get a glass shelf. 

 

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How To Repair  a Stove or Oven.

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For the most part basic ovens are usually quite simple appliances until you introduce advanced features. However price sensitivity in this area, especially on contract ranges normally supplied to builders and kitchen contractors, means that a lot of the lower end products are not the best build quality by far.

The faults and information here will relate to built in ovens as well as stoves and double ovens as all operate on the same principles with the exception of ovens that also combine microwave technologies, however these are rare and not within the scope of this article.

Safety First When Working On An Oven Or Cooker

To get the best possible service we recommend to call Mr Rogers before doing anything by yourself. Sometimes you can get more faults by trying to fix one. Get a certified technician check your faulty stove, range or oven.

Common Oven And Stove Problems

 

The stove or oven does not heat up

This does not apply if the stove / oven is totally dead. If the fan is running and the thermostat light comes on but you get no heat (or just the thermostat light on in non-fan ovens and cookers) then the probability is that the fan element or heating elements have failed. These are usually fairly straightforward to test for continuity and to replace, however safety must be observed.

 

The other suspect with this sort of fault can be the main oven changeover switch. The normal arrangement is to have a changeover switch, sometimes called a "commutator", to select the various oven functions with the thermostat mounted on the back on cheaper models and a separate thermostat, often also regulating the grill temperature, on more expensive models or those with more features.

 

The safety thermostats or, on some models, a thermal fuse can also cause this failure although if they have failed there is normally a reason such as a faulty thermostat or poor ventilation.

 

It is also possible that a thermostat failure can cause this fault although this is rare.

 

$1·         Fan oven element

 

$1·         Oven element/s

 

$1·         Oven thermostat

 

$1·         Oven changeover switch

 

$1·         Thermal fuse/s or safety thermostats

 

If you need a stove technician you can call Mr Rogers and get your range fixed at an affordable price and every repair with warranty.

 

The stove / oven overheats and burns everything

Normally this is a simple thermostat failure which would manifest itself as this symptom.

When replacing thermostats be careful with the "“phial", this is the long "sensor" that has the temperature probe on it which is inserted into the oven cavity. You must not kink or break that phial as if you do you will have broken the part and it is rendered useless. The phial is filled with a gas which expands and contracts thereby operating the on/off action of the thermostat.

Call Mr Rogers and have you oven be check by an oven certified technician. 

The oven door isn't closing properly

Normally this will be faulty hinges or the hinge runners.

For the most part what will happen is that the hinge runners, NOT the hinges, will go faulty usually the little rollers will fail, causing the door hinges to run off true. This in turn places strain on the hinges that they were not designed to cope with and they will then fail, often snapping.

Most technicians will advise strongly that both hinges are replaced, both rollers or runners replaced, or a set of each at the same time. Replacing one is a false economy as 99.99% of the time if one has gone the other is sure to follow very soon.

$1·         Door hinges

$1·         Door hinge rollers/runners

 

The oven door fell off!

See previous, there is really no other reason or cause.

Or simply call Mr Rogers. We have appliance factory trained technicians. 

The units are burning at either side of the oven or cooker

Under normal circumstance this will be caused by a faulty door seal where the oven or cooker is a few years old or possibly by the door not sealing correctly due to faulty hinges or runners/rollers, see above.

On newer appliances that have not been installed too long (months, not years) it will almost certainly be either poor installation with inadequate ventilation, not enough space allowed between the oven front and the adjacent cupboard doors or poor quality kitchen cabinetry in general. It is virtually unheard of for this to be caused by a fault with the appliance, other than physical damage causing the door to not seal correctly, where there is no fault with the thermostat.

So for older appliances:

$1·         Oven or cooker door seal faulty

$1·         Oven or cooker door hinges faulty

$1·         Oven door hinge rollers/runners

$1·         Possible oven thermostat fault 

For new machines:

$1·         Physical damage to oven (transit damage)

$1·         Inadequate ventilation

$1·         Inadequate spacing between oven and cupboard doors

$1·         Poor kitchen doors that cannot withstand temperatures of 100?C Possible thermostat fault

It doesn’t matter if your stove is new or old, Mr Rogers can help you fix your faulty range. We offer Same Day Service and Emergency Service Call. 

The oven door or knobs are too hot

This is a common complaint with new appliances.
In essence, when installed correctly, the chances of the oven not meeting BS Standard is almost impossible so much so that we have only come across such an instance once or twice in tens of thousands tested over the years. The accepted solution is that replacing with a superior model fitted with better cooling ability or with a cooling fan (many cheaper models, especially contract ranges) as many do not have these fitted as standard to reduce costs. 

Call Mr Rogers and have a technician check your stove today. 

The oven or stove cuts out after it's been on for a while. Stove burner suddenly turns off.

This is an overheating problem which can be caused by the main oven thermostat or a faulty safety thermostat that will be causing the problem. It can also be caused by a failure of the cooling fan, where fitted, but usually these go noisy before failing, only rarely do they go open circuit.

Safety thermostats are used to prevent the oven or cooker overheating and causing physical damage and are usually mounted on the outside of the actual oven cavity. They can be hard to find as all too often they are buried in the insulation surrounding the oven cavity if the wires are not evident and easily seen.

$1·         Main oven thermostat 

$1·         Faulty oven safety thermostat

$1·         Faulty oven cooling fan motor

$1·         Poor installation, ventilation issue

No matter what your problem is you have an expert to call. Call Mr Rogers and ask a certified stove technician to  help you fix your stove burners or oven heating element. 

The oven or stove is noisy

Noise from the stove is rare but noise in the oven is limited to being produced by the moving parts so the fan motor and cooling fan motor are the most obvious causes where fitted. When new it is not uncommon for a cooling fan motor especially to be misaligned or damaged giving off a screeching sound as the blades catch the casing.

On older ovens and stove a bearing failure in either motor will cause this issue and, in the case of fan motors, if the fault is not rectified reasonably quickly the fan element may fail as well as the motor turns slower than it should allow the fan element to overheat. In some cases the fan blades may even "clip" the element, again leading to its premature failure.

It is worth noting that some rattling type noises can be caused by loose screws, faulty hinges etc.

$1·         Fan oven motor failure

$1·         Oven cooling fan motor failure

$1·         Physical damage

No one likes a noisy oven. If you have this problem you can call Mr Rogers and ask for an oven specialist to  repair your oven. 

Why does a fan run after I switch the oven off?

This is a cool down period and can vary massively from appliance to appliance and even from kitchen to kitchen as it is dependent on the temperature that the machine was running at, the insulation (how good it is) and the ventilation of the cabinets in which the oven or cooker is housed. It is not uncommon for a cooling fan to run on for half an hour or more after the oven is switched off and this is perfectly normal.

You can call Mr Rogers and ask a technician for tips on energy saving or giving your stove maintenance. 

The oven door seal is faulty where can I get a new one?

Door seals are easy to spot on failure as they tend to break up and they are normally easy to replace, most being simply clipped into place. We can send a technician to your home to check your stove and see what type of seal we need to ordered. Once we have the oven seal we will call you and schedule and appointment. We have Same Day Service, Next Day Service and Emergency Service available for your convenience. 

 How do I clean the oven?

We hope to have a more detailed article on this in the near future however as a start some tips are detailed here:

$1·         Refer to the user guide for instructions on removing the door and door glasses

$1·         Do not use abrasive cleaners where there is stenciled lettering or legends

$1·         For oven interiors, but not self-cleaning panels, Fairy Power Spray is excellent

$1·         To clean inside the door, between the glass, disassembly of the door is usually required

$1·         Knobs usually "pull off" for cleaning, gently prise if required

$1·         Do not clean panels with wire wool or "Brillo" pads as you will damage the surfaces

$1·         Do not use any chemical cleaners on self-cleaning panels, you will ruin them

If you need a certified technician to clean the oven for you, call Mr Rogers. 

How do I clean the oven door?

See above, but most oven doors can be removed for cleaning and, if possible, this is normally detailed in the instruction manual. If you need help or advised on how to clean your oven door you can call Mr Rogers and scheduled an appointment for a technician to visit you. 

The door glass has shattered, why?

We have had much debate on this subject and the short answer is that there is no definitive answer to the question, we can only tell you what we do know to be fact or has been advised by the manufacturers.

The problem can be caused by minor defects in the glass and these can be caused in many way including:

$1·         Hotpots from resting hot dishes on the glass

$1·         Slamming the door which can weaken the glass

$1·         Leaving wet dishtowels either on the glass or in contact hanging on the door causing a temperature differential

$1·         Impact damage

$1·         Temperature regulation problem

$1·         Improper installation, ventilation

$1·         Large casserole dishes (or similar) touching the inner glass whilst cooking

$1·         Oven thermostat problem (overheating)

$1·         Oven door seal faulty

$1·         Oven door hinges faulty

As you can see there has been a number of reasons put forward but, unfortunately, the evidence often lies in a thousand pieces making determining the reason for the glass to explode (as it is often reported) virtually impossible.

The upshot of it is that this does happen on occasion and can happen to any brand, no one brand has escaped this phenomena and there is no definitive time scale in which it will happen nor any definitive reason other than a thermostat failure or, possibly, the hinges and door seal as they can be ascertained.

With either the inner or outer door glass not properly in place do not use the oven for safety reason, it can be dangerous to do so.

If you need to replace you oven door or door handle you can visit Mr Rogers or call us and ask a technician to assist you. 

The light inside the oven is faulty

Normally this is simply a case of replacing the bulb. However is the bulb cover is stuck, it often happens due to the build up of cooking grease, then you may have to smash the cover (carefully) to access the bulb. Occasionally a full light assembly is required.

If you do have to smash the bulb get an old towel and place it over the lamp cover and smash. The towel should catch most of the glass, stop you getting cut or shards of glass flying at your face as well as protecting the oven liner.

Most common bulbs used for ovens and cookers are available from this link, make sure that you use a correctly rated bulb for the temperature or the new one could explode!

A Technician help you identify the main problem. Call Mr Rogers now and ask for the stove repair service. We offer Same Day Service Call, and Emergency Service Call. 

The oven is totally dead

First things first, check the electricity supply and make sure it is okay.

Next check that the oven is not on automatic, if you are not sure check the manual.

Next, it has become increasingly popular for builders to cut costs by not installing a proper 30 Amp cooker supply, instead placing ovens on a 13A socket and plug. The problem is that invariably the socket will be behind the oven and you have to take the oven out from its housing to check the fuse.

After that check the mains cable with a meter (DO NOT LIVE TEST)

If you can’t find the problem call Mr Rogers and let a technician check your range for you. 

The oven door handle is broken, is it easy to change and can I get a new one?

Depends on the oven. Some are really simply, being only two screws to release and change and others require a total stripdown of the door.

Just call Mr Rogers to have an advise on how to do it. 

What's the black glue that holds the door glass or hinges on?

It is this special heat glue that is used for these types of jobs. Bear in mind that you must allow this glue to set completely before refitting any components glued with it.

If you think that black glue is not doing his function correctly you can call Mr Rogers and ask for advise. 

The grill element in my oven or cooker doesn't work

This would usually indicate that the grill element is faulty.

Also check the main oven changeover switch, energy regulator (grill) if fitted and any overheat thermostats.

$1·         Grill element 

$1·         Oven changeover switch

$1·         Overheat thermostat 

$1·         Main oven thermostat, if used to regulate the grill temperature

If you need to repair your grill element from your oven you can call Mr Rogers and schedule a service call. 

The outer part of the grill element doesn't glow

They mostly don't. Most, especially continental grills, do not use an infra-red outer zone and therefore they do not "“glow" as such but they are still heating.

The only way to safely check this is to carry out a continuity check on the element itself.

Get a stove technician to check it for you. Call Mr Rogers 

There's smoke from the oven, what is it?

Invariably spillage except on a new installation or when a new element is fitted. The elements come with a protective coating which must "burn off" before you commence cooking.

There is nothing in the oven that is flammable or that can cause any odours or smoke in normal use and so the cause must be external in origin. 

 

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Dryer Basic Fault Repair Service

How To Repair A Dryer

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Repairing a dryer is often a relatively easy task for most people reasonably competent in DIY and working with electrical products as they really are rather simple appliances all things considered.

Of course things get a little more complex once you step up from simple plain old vented dryers to condenser dryers and finally (for now) to the much newer low energy use heat pump dryers.

Vented dryers are the oldest of all types and, generally, the most reliable and the easiest to repair when something goes wrong. This type requires a vent hose to be fed to the outside through a wall or window so are easy to spot.

The next up the ladder is a condenser dryer which have become far more commonplace because they can be installed without the requirement to have a vent to the outside. However, it should be noted that these cannot be installed just anywhere and there are restrictions on temperatures and that cleaning filters regularly becomes essential.

Now we have low energy heat pump dryers which are, for the domestic white goods industry, a relatively new technology although these types of dryer have long been in use in commercial applications and the actual technology is far from new.

Heat pump dryers work largely on the same principle as a condenser dryer but with a few notable differences, the largest being that instead of a heating element as such it uses a small heat pump, much like a refrigeration unit, to provide heat to dry laundry.

To correctly diagnose a dryer fault you will need to have a grasp of how your dryer works and the main components of the dryer. Of course how these are implemented can vary hugely from brand to brand and even from model to model but the principals will remain almost constant.

How A Dryer Works

There are three basic types of dryer in common domestic use, the condenser dryer, heat pump dryer and the vented dryer.

In short the vented dryer requires a vent to push the hot exhaust air out of the room in which the dryer is operated and this is normally to the outside either through a wall or window by way of a venting kit or hose. 

A condenser dryer is "self-condensing" meaning that the moisture removed from the clothing during the drying process is condensed internally and the water vapour either drained to the house drainage system or collected in a container which has to be manually emptied. 

In both cases the basic operating principles of the drying action are pretty much identical and so the rest of this explanation is generalized. 

When it comes to faults on a dryer, of which not heating is by far the most common, like all other appliances you need to methodically determine where the fault lies and so you have to understand how the machine works to do that. Simply guessing and blindly replacing parts until it works again is not the way to go about things. 

In any dryer there are three things that must be present for the machine to be able to dry, heat, mechanical action and airflow. If any of those fail in any way then the dryer will not dry.

Dryer Heaters And Thermostats

The heater and thermostats are the most common area to fail in some way. Normally this will be a case of simply determining which has in fact failed which is normally quite easy by simply testing the heater elements for continuity using an electrical meter. If the heater is open circuit it will require to be replaced, bearing in mind that many are in fact two elements for the different levels of heat, so check both circuits. 

If the heater is not open circuit and you have continuity then you should then look at the thermostats. Normally there are one or possibly two mounted around the heater housing but there are also often another one, possibly two, cunningly hidden on the vent, this is commonly known as the "exhaust stat". It's not so common that an exhaust stat will fail but, it does happen and how you determine the part faulty as an amateur is difficult at best as usually we will apply some heat whilst we have a meter on it to check that it turns on and off as required. 

The usual two thermostats at the heater itself will usually be a cycling thermostat and the other an overheat stat, sometimes referred to as a TOC (Thermal Overload Cutout). 

The cycling stat controls the normal dryer operation cutting in the power to the heater as and when more heat is required whilst the overheat thermostat simply does nothing until an overheat condition is recognized by it. 

It is increasingly common to find these overheat thermostats have failed or, in actual fact, have operated correctly. The overheat thermostat is in effect a safety device designed to stop the tumble dryer from overheating and, possibly, catching fire should a failure of the main cycling thermostat occur or the airflow in hindered in any way. However it is common these days that these have "tripped" with no other problem to be seen. The reason for this is almost invariably that the user has opened the door before the dryer's cool down phase has been completed. This causes latent heat to build inside the dryer thereby raising the temperature enough to trip the overheat thermostat. 

Many of these thermostats are now of the non-resettable type and therefore must be changed to resume normal operations. Under absolutely no circumstances should an overheat thermostat be by-passed, fitted incorrectly or modified or you could have a serious safety risk.

Airflow Through Your Dryer

As stated previously, in order to operate correctly your dryer needs a constant flow of air. 

This is true both internally and externally!

We cannot stress enough how important airflow to a dryer is. If you kill the airflow you will kill the dryer.

Simply put, a dryer draws in cool ambient air, heats it over and electrical (in most cases) heater and then "blows" that air through the clothes to condense the water content and then exhausts that out the vent. 

If you do not have a sufficient supply of air coming in then the dryer won't work correctly. If you do not have adequate airflow out then the water vapor and expelled air have nowhere to go and, the dryer won't work correctly. 

On a condenser dryer the main difference is that the expelled air will pass over a condenser (hence the name of condenser dryer) which will condense the expelled water and usually pump or drain that water to a tank which can then later be emptied. This saves the need for an external vent but does complicate the appliance somewhat. 

Common airflow problems are usually not that hard to track down and the usual complaint in this area would be poor drying performance or complaints that the dryer takes ages to dry clothes. Interestingly poor airflow is very likely not just to decrease the performance, increase the drying time but it will almost certainly mean much longer running times which will cost you a lot more in electricity. It is very worthwhile checking the dryer on a regular basis to ensure that the airflow is good. 

Check the filters first, blocked filters will mean reduced airflow and this can seriously affect the dryer's performance. This is simple routine maintenance that, if not carried out, will mean possible poor performance, longer dry times and bigger electricity bills. 

Externally make sure that the dryer is not completely encased. All dryers MUST have a good supply of air around them or you will almost certainly have problems. Whilst this should be noted upon installation it may often not come to light for months and, in some cases, years before it causes an actual failure. 

Where the dryer is vented the vent must be clear and unobstructed.

Common Tumble Dryer Faults

No heat in dryer

This is the most common failure reported, often with a simple solution on inspection. 

If the machine does not heat check for a reset button usually a small red button on the back and see if the machine works after this is pressed. These are almost always fitted to appliances manufactured by Crosslee who make tumble dryers for just about everybody from Candy to Zanussi so it's worth having a look.

$1·         Heater faulty

$1·         Thermostat or thermostats faulty

$1·         Blocked with ooze or fluff

$1·         Safety thermostat tripped

Tumble dryer drum not turning

Again a fairly common fault to come across and, in the case of tumble dryers a faulty belt is not at all uncommon.

$1·         Belt faulty

$1·         Motor capacitor (where fitted)

$1·         Motor faulty

$1·         Jockey wheels faulty

Tumble dryer noisy

It's again not uncommon and usually fairly straightforward to find the problem however, solving the problem however is often is far from easy.

$1·         Bearings faulty

$1·         Jockey wheels faulty or worn

$1·         Felt pads worn

$1·         Motor bearings faulty

Tumble dryer not starting

This is not really a very common problem on most but some machines and older machines especially it does happen usually due to the door microswitch failing. It can also be caused by a timer failure, but that is unlikely. 

Other problems include steam, if you get steam then your appliance is not vented properly or the vent hose is broken in the main. But if you just hang the hose out the window it could well be that the condensed air is being blown back into the room! 

Bad smells from a tumble dryer are almost always caused by the vent hose having a dip in it where water gathers ad goes stale, it could be worth checking. 

Well that about covers standard dryers any other faults really require the services of an engineer.

Self-Condensing Dryers

These appliances are lot more complex and for the layman, not really to be tampered with unless you either know what you're doing or are confident in your own abilities. 

If the appliance leaks check that the water tray in its housing correctly and in not full.

If you get steam from the appliance it may be that the room is too cold make sure that the room temperature is within the limits in the instruction book. This can also happen with a normal dryer too especially if the room is too cold. 

The common problems are pretty much the same as they are for the normal dryers, but with the added complications of a condenser system. That said, make sure that the condenser itself is clear, many can be removed and cleaned.

The Big Warnings for All Dryers

Let any dryer run through its cool down phase! 

Pulling the door open to check if stuff is dry and such things will, almost certainly in a modern dryer, result in the overheat thermostat being tripped and, many are now "one-shot" devices meaning that they won't and cannot be, reset. 

Make sure filters are clear and regularly cleaned. Failure to do so will cost you both time and money. 

Ensure adequate ventilation and a ready supply of fresh air, if you don't you will have problems.

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